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It has good brakes and plenty of speed, plus it is budget friendly compared to other options. I remove the stock pinion from the Slot. Of course the end which I install it depends on the pod.

Extended motor shafts on each end make it compatible with either pod system. The above shows the motor in stock form. Snaps in easily enough.

Although having the dual shafts is great for compatibility, the excess length can cause issues as you see on the stock motor. I trim the ends of the motor shafts as the clearance between it and the tires is a little close for my liking.

As you can see there is not much clearance between the tire and shaft in stock form. Gluing your tires helps prevent expansion but I trim the shaft regardless.

You also might want to do this if you are using slightly oversize tires as they will likely make contact. Another reason I trim it is that it makes it easier to fit into my press to install the pinion.

I use the common Dremel cut off wheel shown above. Don't worry about any heat build up that would harm anything. It only takes a few seconds to slice through.

I have performed this on countless motors over the years and never has this adversely effected the motor.

You create more heat actually racing it than you do performing this modification. Then use sandpaper at an angle to the pinion to bevel it.

We have been doing this for years and like the results. There are some people that feel doing this modification reduces the weight and rotating mass of the motor and therefore actually increases the speed and braking action.

I have no proof of this. I do it only to solve the tire clearance issue and to simplify pinion installation.

After I install the motor I use screws to secure it in place. A washer won't fit on the right but it isn't really needed.

I feel securing the motor this way is one of the most important things you can do. It prevents the motor from rocking in the mount and possibly causing gear damage.

My first step is to true the front wheels. Since the wheels on Slot. Just twist and pull one side and the wheel will come off.

The fit of these wheels is tight enough so you usually need no glue when you re-install. I do not like fast setting adhesives like super glue.

I want time to adjust the wheels right where I want them. I install the assembly on the Tire Razor and give the wheels a clean up, then glue on the tires and perform another session.

A light sheen is all that is seen using Future Pledge FloorCare. I just sand the tire until it is round and most of the tread is removed.

I then contour the inside sidewall as shown. The outside sidewall gets a little as well, just not as much.

Only enough to make sure there are no hard edges. Zero grip on the front? Many enthusiasts like this as it does help performance in many cases. And there are ways to make it happen by either coating the front tires or just purchasing Slot.

I do not like coating the tires with nail polish. Not only does it take away from the looks, it makes the car sound very annoying.

Imagine a couple marbles rolling down your track, that about describes it for me. On my cars I sand the stock fronts and just doing that helps.

The tires will dry and glaze over time and work just as well. If you are in a hurry you can try a couple coats of Pledge FloorCare Future floor wax.

No matter the name change most of us will always call it Future. I brushed the tires 2 or 3 coats. It soaks into the stock rubber and really helps reduce the grip but does not effect the looks.

It also is a much quieter option and that means a lot for me. When I remove the front axle I also remove the axle tabs that are inside the bulkheads on each side.

I prefer to use set screws top and bottom which allows me to fine tune the height and minimize vertical free-play. I set the axle the closest I can get to a perfect tri-pod.

The front tires are just barely touching the track and they roll under power. Your models come with excess length wire.

This is good as it allows you to trim and adjust them. Out of the box the wires usually rub the front tires when the car rotates in the slot as shown above.

Remove the set screw that holds the wire into the guide. I usually start with just trimming about half of the existing exposed wire and then the matching distance on the coating.

You only need a little to accomplish a lot. Now check it again. You are checking two things: Clearance of the wire from the tire and on the other side for distance travel.

When you rotate the guide you don't want the wire to stop the travel of the guide. This would lead get it? The wires are coated with a very durable silicone based coating and can withstand a fair amount of rubbing.

When the body is installed, you might see some rubbing. Just adjust the wire lengths to find that sweet spot. With the low nose of this model you will likely always have some rubbing.

Just swivel the guide to make sure the contact is not preventing smooth travel. On our track we prefer Paul Gage urethane based tires. Your track and preference will be different so simply use what you like.

With PG tires I choose a size slightly larger in width than the car came with. I like the slightly added sidewall width on the outside.

It fills the fender up nicely and still has scale appeal. Comment Post Cancel. I don't see Slot. If you are looking for endbell drive.

I think i have some that came with some parts chassis I purchased! F1Fan commented. Thank you Zack, if you have one that is for sale, I would be interested.

Since it needs to be mailed to Canada, do you perhaps have a model number? That way I can perhaps source one from the shops I am placing an order with for other supplies.

Thank you for the comments and suggestions! I am looking for a pod like the one in the red circle, does anyone know a model number or availability?

I t looks like Slot. It size design. I do prefer driving from the CAN side for obvious reasons, but please see my original post about why I would need to turn the motor in this case.

Pepsi By do people insist on calling an end bell a bell end, they're not the same thing at all, one is the brush gear end of one of our motors Good luck finding a endbell drive SW from Slot.

They only made them for a short while before switching to can drive. I think your best option is to get one from ZackM or from thingiverse Pepsi62 posted a link to.

It's like finding a can drive IL pod. Those are scarce as hen's teeth as well. They put them in the early Audi's and the Kenwood and Canon Porsches.

After that, they went to end bell IL's Just noticed in this pic that the endbell and can drive IL's backwards Last edited by dungeonracer ; March 29, , PM.

Guess it depends on your parts supply!! Chris, If Zack can't help, I may have one!! Cheers Chris Walker. Well, if I ever need one, I know who to call I have a D3D version that I can sell: And yes, I posted the version up on Thingiverse but without a printer that won't help you Kind Regards.

Come Race at The Trace!

It prevents the motor from rocking in the mount and possibly causing gear damage. My first step is to true the front wheels. Since the wheels on Slot.

Just twist and pull one side and the wheel will come off. The fit of these wheels is tight enough so you usually need no glue when you re-install.

I do not like fast setting adhesives like super glue. I want time to adjust the wheels right where I want them.

I install the assembly on the Tire Razor and give the wheels a clean up, then glue on the tires and perform another session.

A light sheen is all that is seen using Future Pledge FloorCare. I just sand the tire until it is round and most of the tread is removed. I then contour the inside sidewall as shown.

The outside sidewall gets a little as well, just not as much. Only enough to make sure there are no hard edges. Zero grip on the front?

Many enthusiasts like this as it does help performance in many cases. And there are ways to make it happen by either coating the front tires or just purchasing Slot.

I do not like coating the tires with nail polish. Not only does it take away from the looks, it makes the car sound very annoying.

Imagine a couple marbles rolling down your track, that about describes it for me. On my cars I sand the stock fronts and just doing that helps. The tires will dry and glaze over time and work just as well.

If you are in a hurry you can try a couple coats of Pledge FloorCare Future floor wax. No matter the name change most of us will always call it Future.

I brushed the tires 2 or 3 coats. It soaks into the stock rubber and really helps reduce the grip but does not effect the looks. It also is a much quieter option and that means a lot for me.

When I remove the front axle I also remove the axle tabs that are inside the bulkheads on each side. I prefer to use set screws top and bottom which allows me to fine tune the height and minimize vertical free-play.

I set the axle the closest I can get to a perfect tri-pod. The front tires are just barely touching the track and they roll under power.

Your models come with excess length wire. This is good as it allows you to trim and adjust them. Out of the box the wires usually rub the front tires when the car rotates in the slot as shown above.

Remove the set screw that holds the wire into the guide. I usually start with just trimming about half of the existing exposed wire and then the matching distance on the coating.

You only need a little to accomplish a lot. Now check it again. You are checking two things: Clearance of the wire from the tire and on the other side for distance travel.

When you rotate the guide you don't want the wire to stop the travel of the guide. This would lead get it? The wires are coated with a very durable silicone based coating and can withstand a fair amount of rubbing.

When the body is installed, you might see some rubbing. Just adjust the wire lengths to find that sweet spot. With the low nose of this model you will likely always have some rubbing.

Just swivel the guide to make sure the contact is not preventing smooth travel. On our track we prefer Paul Gage urethane based tires.

Your track and preference will be different so simply use what you like. With PG tires I choose a size slightly larger in width than the car came with.

I like the slightly added sidewall width on the outside. It fills the fender up nicely and still has scale appeal. The inside sidewall will need a little sanding for it to clear the chassis.

I do this on the Tire Razor but you can do it on the car easily enough. In fact, I prefer doing it while on the car for faster results.

Just back the wheel out enough for a sheet of sandpaper to fit. Tighten the wheel and put power to the car. In no time you will have the sidewall sanded true.

Now loosen the wheel and set it where it needs to be and check clearance. Install the body and check clearance there as well to make sure the outside is not rubbing the fender.

The photo above shows what you are trying to accomplish. This is what I like the most about these tires. The grip level is excellent but the ability to shape and adjust them to suit my taste seals the deal.

You just sand enough to make sure the tire does not rub the chassis. Once this is done I will mount the assembly in the Tire Razor and true them.

In the case of Slot. I like using grit to start the sanding and then finish with grit or finer to get a very smooth finish on the tire. One issue that may or may not be present is the spur gear rubbing the chassis.

This usually happens when you loosen the screws on the motor pod to achieve float. When you do this, the pod obviously has movement and could allow the inside of the gear to make contact with the chassis edge.

The fix is simple. Slot Car Corner has some very thin spacers that are made for such issues. Usually just one is enough but you can stack them if needed.

So we are finally finished. It seems like a lot and some of you are likely in a reading coma by now. Truth is, it is not a lot.

In a couple hours you can start from scratch and be on the track enjoying it. Logging in Remember me. Log in. Forgot password or user name?

It SW Motor pod question. Posts Latest Activity. Page of 1. Filtered by:. Previous template Next. Is this correct?

Any suggestions? Chris PS: - I have few of these Chevrons in various stages of modification and they are great little cars. I make prophecies which immediately turn out to be wrong " "And that just shows you how important the car is in Formula One Racing" Murray Walker.

Tags: None. March 29, , PM. Chris surprised that you were unaware of this pod. I snip the wings off when I use them. Now unless I am mistaken I don't see any difference in this pod and the 62 that you are showing.

Are you looking for endbell drive? With your shafts uncut I would think you could put your gear on any side you would want. You're the pro here.

I'm just a novice. Last edited by arroldn ; March 29, , PM. Comment Post Cancel. I don't see Slot. If you are looking for endbell drive.

I think i have some that came with some parts chassis I purchased! F1Fan commented. Thank you Zack, if you have one that is for sale, I would be interested.

Since it needs to be mailed to Canada, do you perhaps have a model number? That way I can perhaps source one from the shops I am placing an order with for other supplies.